KOUGEI-EXPO

全国くらしの工芸展 11/25(金)〜11/27(日) 会場:サンドーム福井

織物

本場大島紬

Oshima Pongee

織物

鹿児島県

宮崎県

Kagoshima Miyazaki

奄美における大島紬の始まりは、7世紀頃に遡ります。産地が形成されたのは18世紀初期のことで、その後、技法は鹿児島にも伝わりました。絣模様は締め機(しめはた)という独特の機を用いて作られます。糸を染める「泥染め」の技法は特に有名です。
紬のルーツは、遠くインドでうまれたイカットという絣織り(かすりおり)だと言われており、イカットが、スマトラ、ジャワからスンダ列島一帯に広がりを見せた頃に、奄美大島にも伝わったと言われています。

The origins of this cloth woven on the Amami islands near Okinawa dates back to the 7th century. It was not until the beginning of the 18th century, however, that the craft took on the guise of an industry and its techniques were subsequently handed on to those working in Kagoshima Prefecture. The ikat or kasuri patterns are achieved on a special loom called a shimehata. And the dyeing of the yarn with mud is especially famous. The origins of this cloth are said to go back to the ikat weaves that originated in far off India and when this technique spread through Sumatra, Java and on through the East Indies, it was also brought to the Amami islands.This distinctive, beautifully fine ikat patterned cloth has a restrained character, being dyed with a colorant derived from a member of the rose family called sharinbai (Rhaphiolepis umbellata) and mud. There are now 11,908 people engaged in this work managed by 748 firms. There are 141 government recognized Master Craftsmen among those at work.

西陣織

Nishijin Textiles

織物

京都府

Kyoto

西陣という名は、室町時代の応仁の乱の時、西軍が本陣とした場所に、乱の後、職人が集まって織物をしたことから付けられました。織物の歴史としては、平安時代以前に秦氏によってもたらされた織技術にまで遡ることができます。西陣織は宮廷文化を中心に、織文化の担い手として発展してきました。

The name Nishijin was given to these textiles because weavers settled in the area which had been the headquarters of the west camp or Nishijin at the time of the Onin War. Lasting eleven years, these hostilities took place during the Muromachi period (1392-1573) from 1467 to 1477, when lords from many provinces divided into east and west factions. The history of Nishijin textiles themselves, however, can be traced back to weaving techniques fostered by the Hata family before the Heian period (794-1185), and this accumulation of skills developed as a weaving art centered on the culture of the imperial court in Kyoto.Nishijin textiles are yarn dyed figured cloths made in relatively small amounts but have the distinction of being able to offer a wide variety of different products, including a tightly woven tapestry cloth, damask, brocade, ikat, and pongee. The multicolored figured cloths in particular boast a rich and dazzling use of fine yarns to produce equally rich patterns. Many of these are made into kimono or obi, and tapestry. There are now 1,759 firms employing 22,258 people, among whom there are 329 government recognized Master Craftsmen sustaining one of Japan's most distinguished crafts.

村山大島紬

Murayama Oshima Fabrics

織物

東京都

Tokyo

村山大島紬の始まりは、江戸時代後期と言われています。
1920年頃、正藍染め(しょうあいぞめ)による錦織物の「村山紺絣」と玉繭による絹織物の「砂川太織(ふとおり)」の2つが合流して、絹織物としての村山大島紬が生産の中心となりました。この素晴らしい品質や丈夫さが高く評価され、東京都指定無形文化財として認められています。

While the history of this kimono cloth only seems to date back to the middle of the 19th century, it was in 1920 that the techniques associated with two different cloths were combined to produce the silk cloth known as Murayama Oshima pongee. One of these was an indigo dyed, figured ikat called Murayama Kongasuri, and the other was a silk cloth called Sagawa Futoori woven from a dupion thread. Its sheer quality and durability have always given Murayama Oshima pongee a large following and it has been recognized by Metropolitan Tokyo as an intangible cultural property.Kimono made of this light comfortable cloth is often handed down from mother to daughter and on to granddaughter, and the unfailing traditions and quality of this cloth are still recognized today. With 48 firms and 88 working on the cloth now, it is still a thriving industry. And 26 nationally recognized Master Craftsmen among those doing the work make a significant contribution to the continuance of this craft.